DIRAN PEAK IN GILGIT VALLEY
The peak is called Minapin as well as Diran. It is situated in Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain region near the Minapin, Hinarchi and Baultar glaciers and is easily accessible because of the Karakoram Highway. There is confusion about its height but now all agree that it is 7,273m. Height, it is one of the fascinating peaks that dominates the Gilgit valley and adds special color to its otherwise rugged beauty.A three-member Austrian expedition, which included Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell, decided to try its luck on Minapin in 1968 after being refused permission to climb Kampire Dior peak. It set up camp I at 4,800m. Big crevasses, inclement weather and deep snow is recorded between camps I and II. It was from camp Ill that the party was able to reach the peak which it termed as a “big summit plateau”. The 1958-British expedition to Diran peak failed to climb it from north-west face because its leader, E.G.C. Warr and a member, F.C. Hoyte, were struck by storm and disappeared when only 300 feet from the summit. In 1959, a German Karakoram expedition, under the leadership of Hans Jochen Schneider, wanted to carry out a geological and geophysical survey in Batura glacier area. It was refused permission. Consequently, it turned its attention to Minapin - Rakaposhi area. On the 9th June, one member, Erwin Stocker,and one porter reached an 18,000-foot-col situated to the north of Minapin. Subsequently, the party could reach a place which was less than one thousand feet short of north-west face of the summit. In 1964, an Austrian expedition from Salzburg attempted to climb the peak from the north-west face but was unsuccessful because of bad weather and danger of avalanches. The party had only three climbers.In 1965, a Japanese expedition of Kyoto Mountaineering Federation attempted to climb the peak. Earlier, in 1963 two of its members had reconnoitered the peak. The party was only 250ft from the summit on north-west face when it had to abandon the climb because of ‘strong winds and whirring snow.”
GOLDEN PEAK IN GILGIT VALLEY
Golden Peak is a mountain in Spantik-Sosbun Mountains subrange of Karakoram.Its northwest face features an exceptionally hard climbing route known as the "Golden Pillar".It lies east of Diran and northeast of Malubiting. The name Golden Peak is called so, because of its Golden colour.
CLIMBING: Spantik was first climbed in 1955 by Karl Kramer's German expedition. The most commonly climbed line follows the south east ridge, which was attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906. The ridge rises 2700 meters over a lateral distance of 7.6 km, at angles which are mostly less than 30 degrees, with a few sections up to 40 degrees. It contains varied terrain, from rocky outcrops to snow and ice and scree.
TREAK TO RUSH LAKE
The trek start with a sharp downward walk from hoper village toward hoper glacier. Descending is not very difficult except during rain because trek becomes very muddy and slippery to walk. So take extra caution if it is raining to avoid falling off the trek. After about 40 minutes of downward walk you Will be at the top of hoper glacier.Hoper glacier is coming out of Kapel Doungs peak. A cold and chilly wind will greet you as you reach the glacier. The abrupt change of warm to cold weather is very surprising and requires a piece of warm cloth. The view of Kapel Doungs is fabulous from Hoper glacier. From Hoper glacier Kapel Doungs looks like a big rock of frozen ice. It would be appropriate to call it "snow wall". In about 40 minutes of time you will reach Shishkin after crossing over hoper glacier. After a short break resume your walk toward Barpu glacier.
Rush lake Rush Lake is a high altitude lake located near Rush Pari Peak (5,098 m). At over 4,694 meters, Rush is one of the highest alpine lakes in the world. It is located about 15 km north of Miar Peak and Spantik (Golden Peak), which are in the Nagar valley. Rush Lake and Rush Peak can be reached via Nagar and Hopar and via the Hopar Glacier (Bualtar Glacier) and Miar Glacier, which rises from Miar and Phuparash peaks. The trek to Rush Lake provides spectacular views of Spantik, Malubiting, Miar Peak, Phuparash Peak and Ultar Sar. Rush Lake which sat in a bowl is a high altitude lake located at over 4700 meter is one of the highest alpine lake in Pakistan. The blue coloured crystal clear water with lush green slopes of wild flowers surrounded by white peaks as high as 7000 meter is one of the most beautiful track in the world. The atmosphere is very soothing and relaxing after a long walk to the lake. The most interesting view is of yak taking bath in the frozen lake. Bigger than wild buffaloes and with long hairs are usually found in places over 4500 meters above the sea level. You can watch the grazing along the lake.
Stay here your first night and next morning get ready to climb Rush peak. Try to go light because you have to come back to rush lake. In 2 to 3 hours you will reach Rush Peak. Once you reach the summit you will encounter with breathtaking views of magnificent giant mountains. This is the place where two big glaciers Hispar glacier (67km) and Biafo glacier (54km) meets. In addition there are great views of K2, Broad peak, G series, Mashabrum and Chogholiz
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