killer mountains

           DIRAN PEAK IN GILGIT VALLEY

The peak is called Minapin as well as Diran. It is situated in Rakaposhi and Haramosh mountain region near the Minapin, Hinarchi and Baultar glaciers and is easily accessible because of the Karakoram Highway. There is confusion about its height but now all agree that it is 7,273m. Height, it is one of the fascinating peaks that dominates the Gilgit valley and adds special color to its otherwise rugged beauty.

A three-member Austrian expedition, which included Rainer Goschl, Rudolph Pischinger and Hanns Schell, decided to try its luck on Minapin in 1968 after being refused permission to climb Kampire Dior peak. It set up camp I at 4,800m. Big crevasses, inclement weather and deep snow is recorded between camps I and II. It was from camp Ill that the party was able to reach the peak which it termed as a “big summit plateau”. The 1958-British expedition to Diran peak failed to climb it from north-west face because its leader, E.G.C. Warr and a member, F.C. Hoyte, were struck by storm and disappeared when only 300 feet from the summit. In 1959, a German Karakoram expedition, under the leadership of Hans Jochen Schneider, wanted to carry out a geological and geophysical survey in Batura glacier area. It was refused permission. Consequently, it turned its attention to Minapin - Rakaposhi area. On the 9th June, one member, Erwin Stocker,and one porter reached an 18,000-foot-col situated to the north of Minapin. Subsequently, the party could reach a place which was less than one thousand feet short of north-west face of the summit. In 1964, an Austrian expedition from Salzburg attempted to climb the peak from the north-west face but was unsuccessful because of bad weather and danger of avalanches. The party had only three climbers.In 1965, a Japanese expedition of Kyoto Mountaineering Federation attempted to climb the peak. Earlier, in 1963 two of its members had reconnoitered the peak. The party was only 250ft from the summit on north-west face when it had to abandon the climb because of ‘strong winds and whirring snow.”

   GOLDEN PEAK IN GILGIT VALLEY  

Golden Peak is a mountain in Spantik-Sosbun Mountains subrange of Karakoram.
Its northwest face features an exceptionally hard climbing route known as the "Golden Pillar".It lies east of Diran and northeast of Malubiting. The name Golden Peak is called so, because of its Golden colour.
CLIMBING:    Spantik was first climbed in 1955 by Karl Kramer's German expedition. The most commonly climbed line follows the south east ridge, which was attempted by the Bullock Workman party in 1906. The ridge rises 2700 meters over a lateral distance of 7.6 km, at angles which are mostly less than 30 degrees, with a few sections up to 40 degrees. It contains varied terrain, from rocky outcrops to snow and ice and scree.

              

          TREAK TO RUSH LAKE

The trek start with a sharp downward walk from hoper village toward hoper glacier. Descending is not very difficult except during rain because trek becomes very muddy and slippery to walk. So take extra caution if it is raining to avoid falling off the trek. After about 40 minutes of downward walk you Will be at the top of hoper glacier.
Hoper glacier is coming out of Kapel Doungs peak. A cold and chilly wind will greet you as you reach the glacier. The abrupt change of warm to cold weather is very surprising and requires a piece of warm cloth. The view of Kapel Doungs is fabulous from Hoper glacier. From Hoper glacier Kapel Doungs looks like a big rock of frozen ice. It would be appropriate to call it "snow wall". In about 40 minutes of time you will reach Shishkin after crossing over hoper glacier. After a short break resume your walk toward Barpu glacier.
Barpu glacier is the only huge (22 km) white glacier of Pakistan which is also very close to human habitat with crevasses in it. One should be extra careful while crossing this white glacier as compared to Hoper Glacier. It is recommended that you wear crampons when you walk on icy surface, because with joggers or trekking shoes you are more Hkely to slip. You have to walk continuously for about 2 hours on this hard and slippery surface of ice. Once you are on Barpu Glacier you can again see the Golden peak. You can also view rush peak from here which is your final destination. If you are. lucky enough and weather is clear you can see the superb view of sptnik. You will reach Barpu Gram a calm and quite village after crossing Barpu Glacier. Take a break here for an hour or two to refresh yourself after crossing two glacier. Beyond this point your journey is pretty straight forward and relatively easy. It takes about 5 hours to reach BetichoKor from hoper valley.
Rush lake Rush Lake is a high altitude lake located near Rush Pari Peak (5,098 m). At over 4,694 meters, Rush is one of the highest alpine lakes in the world. It is located about 15 km north of Miar Peak and Spantik (Golden Peak), which are in the Nagar valley. Rush Lake and Rush Peak can be reached via Nagar and Hopar and via the Hopar Glacier (Bualtar Glacier) and Miar Glacier, which rises from Miar and Phuparash peaks. The trek to Rush Lake provides spectacular views of Spantik, Malubiting, Miar Peak, Phuparash Peak and Ultar Sar. Rush Lake which sat in a bowl is a high altitude lake located at over 4700 meter is one of the highest alpine lake in Pakistan. The blue coloured crystal clear water with lush green slopes of wild flowers surrounded by white peaks as high as 7000 meter is one of the most beautiful track in the world. The atmosphere is very soothing and relaxing after a long walk to the lake. The most interesting view is of yak taking bath in the frozen lake. Bigger than wild buffaloes and with long hairs are usually found in places over 4500 meters above the sea level. You can watch the grazing along the lake.
Stay here your first night and next morning get ready to climb Rush peak. Try to go light because you have to come back to rush lake. In 2 to 3 hours you will reach Rush Peak. Once you reach the summit you will encounter with breathtaking views of magnificent giant mountains. This is the place where two big glaciers Hispar glacier (67km) and Biafo glacier (54km) meets. In addition there are great views of K2, Broad peak, G series, Mashabrum and Chogholiz

   HOPPER GLACIER IN NAGAR VALLEY

Rakaposhi  is a mountain in the Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan . It is situated in the Nagar Valley approximately 100 km north of the city of Gilgit. Rakaposhi means "shining wall" in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Dumani ("Mother of Mist").
It is ranked 27th highest in the world and 12th highest in Pakistan, but it is more popular for its beauty than its rank might suggest. Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey, members of a British-Pakistani expedition, via the Southwest Spur/Ridge route. Both of them suffered minor frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.The best-known attraction for the Mountaineers is the North of Pakistan. Northern part is in knot of four great mountain ranges, Himalayas, Karakoram, Hindu-kush and Pamir with densest concentration of high peaks on earth, including the second highest peak, K-2 (8611m). Radiating out to the border if marked by the Ishkoman and Karumber River in Gilgit District, the eastern end of range known HINDU RAJ, means “Hindu Rule.” Following north from there the Pamir runs up into the former Soviet Union. Spreading from center to northeast along the border with China lies the KARAKORAM, the main block of the mountain in Pakistan, 250 Kilometer wide.
In the south corner separated by the Indus River, where lies the western Himalayan Range and Nanga Parbt 8125m is the western end pillar of this range. The most famous among these are K-2 (8611m), second only to the Everest, Nanga Parbat (8125m), the most dangerous peak and have the reputation of “KILLER MOUNTAIN” the Hidden peak (8068m), the Broad peak (8047m) and the Gasherbrum-11 (8035m) and highest cliff wall of the world, the “TRANGO TOWER GROUP”.

  HISPER GLACIER IN NAGAR VALLEY

  Hispar Glacier is a 49 km long glacier in the Karakoram Mountains of the (Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan) which meets the 63 km long Biafo Glacier at the Hispar La (Pass) at an altitude of 5,128 m (16,824 feet) to create the world's longest glacial system outside of the polar regions. This 100 km highway of ice connects two ancient mountain kingdoms, Nagar (immediately south of Hunza) in the west with Baltistan in the east. The extreme steepness of the hillsides and strenuous nature of the boulder hopping on the lateral moraines and hillsides make this route's upper half the most difficult part of the Biafo - Hispar traverse. Only the Hispar La day includes walking on the Hispar Glacier. The crossing of four major tributary glaciers from the north is most taxing, and potentially high nullah crossings can be dangerous. The views of 7,800 meter (25,600 foot) peaks and of the snow covered cliffs and mountains on the south side of the glacier are particularly impressive.

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